![]() ![]() The keels on those trihulls are the strongest element on the boat, and handle the weight just fine on four rollers. The bunks didn't really come into play until the boat was almost loaded, and then they made full contact once the bow was in the bow stop. Retrieval meant positioning the rear roller even with the water, then winching the thing back on the trailer with the grooved rollers easing things along. I'd have put six rollers in if I had enough cross-members.Īs long as I could get the stern in the water a bit, I could fairly easily shove the boat off the trailer. It didn't cause any deflection at all on the keel. What worked for me was to have four rollers for the keel and most of the boat's weight on the rollers, with the bunks more for stability than weight-bearing. The boat sits pretty high on the trailer, and there's not much that you can do to lower it. He has the same problem I did on my trihull. Trihulls are really no harder to set up on a trailer than any other type of boat. How many rollers? How long are the bunks? How much of the weight is on the rollers and on the bunks? So, describe what it is you don't like about your current setup. It loads and unloads easily, and I'm using 4 keel rollers on a lightweight 12' aluminum boat. ![]() It sits on the rollers, with the bunks basically just contacting to keep it level from side to side. I do the same on my current semi-V aluminum boat. Of course, that means plenty of keel rollers to spread out the load. What I do, and this is just my perspective, is adjust the bunks to just level it on the trailer, and rely on the rollers for most of the weight-bearing. I had a trihull, and it was on a pretty standard roller and bunk trailer. How about some photos of your current setup? It's really hard to discuss the problem without seeing it. ![]()
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